Most Freqrently Asked Questions:

Question #1: How do I insert the cross-pins into my new Doetsch Tech Nitro-Slammer shocks? (Only applicable to certain specific applications.)

Answer: First, remove the bushing from the shock eyelet. Then, flatten the bushing between your thumb and finger so you can work the flat forked-tongue end of the cross-pin into the bushing. Next, lube the inner eyelet of the shock. Finally, after holding the shock securely in a vise or the grip of a strong hand, use a hammer (preferrably dead-blow type) to smack the cross-pin and bushing back into the shock with a sharp, solid blast.

Question #2: Now that I have lowered my '88-'98 Chevy C1500 with 2" drop spindles , I notice that my front wheels make contact with the lower lip of the factory lower a-arms when I turn my wheel lock-to-lock. What can I do to correct this?

Answer: If you have an '88-'98 Chevy C1500 with 15" or 16" wheels that have 3.5" or more of backspacing (including the factory wheels), you will have contact between the lower edge of the wheel and the lip on the front & rear of the factory lower A-arm when you turn the wheel lock-to-lock. In order to correct the condition, most installers use a hand-held grinder to remove the curled-up production lip off of the lower A-arm from the outer end to a point about an inch inward of where the wheel would have made contact. This fix applies to both the front and rear edges of both front A-arms. Most installers ease the end of the grinding to the inside, so as not to leave a sharp edge that could damage a tire on hard turns. This condition exists when using any brand of '88-'98 C1500 2" drop spindles (Bell Tech, DJM, whatever...), so don't be concerned about this ocurring with Western Chassis spindles. It's a matter of the factory geometry, not the aftermarket design.

Question #3: What if my truck seems uneven side-to-side after I drop it?

Answer: First, remember that even brand new trucks on the dealer lot are not perfectly level. Measure them and you'll see. Secondly, consider that an uneven truck is not nearly as noticeable until you lower it and bring the down the wheelwell gap. That being said, there are things you can do to try to moderate this effect;

A. Make sure that your front coil springs are properly seated with the end of the coil butting up and inserted into the indentation in the bottom of the lower a-arm.

B. In the event your rear leaf spring mounting bolts were im-properly tightened (or over-tightened) while the truck was still in the air, loosen the leaf spring mounting bolts at the front hangers and rear shackles, then, while the truck is on the ground...flip down the tailgate and use your weight to jump up and down on it to release any uneven torque in either of the leafs before re-tightening the leaf spring mounting bolts while the truck is on the ground.

C. If nothing else works, and you're still bothered by the look, the last resort is to swap your front coils or rear leafs left-to-right. Remember, coils and leafs have a design tolerance of up to +/- 3/8", so while it is rare, they could cause one side of the truck to go 3/8" higher and the other side 3/8" lower in the course of being dropped, for a total of 3/4" off side-to-side. This, combined with a truck that was a little off from the factory, could result in as much as 1.5" variance side-to-side. Swapping the springs left-to-right will usually even up the tolerances enough to correct the condition visually.

Other Questions?: Call in your other questions to (623) 398-3980 or e-mail us .